Sunday, January 23, 2011

Ten Zillion Things

Hello, my little monkeys.

Many exciting and wonderful things have happened since we last wrote.  Except Thursday.  Nothing really interesting happened on Thursday.  But on Friday, big things started happening.

Friday is when we got all our money.  YAY!  After a week of being held at SMSU (even though we don't have a bill there this semester), it finally got deposited in our account on Friday morning.  Much jubilation ensued.  Now we have the resources to actually pay for things here.

Back to Thursday.  I shouldn't say "nothing" happened, because we did in fact run into another white person.  I cannot stress to you how significant that is.  Kaylee and I really don't see white people here.  This man, named Tony, happens to be from the Netherlands, and he owns a pub here with his Ghanian wife.  He invited us to come and hang out at said pub on Friday night.  And that's exactly what we did.  They make some killer local cuisine, and I got my butt soundly whipped at billiards by the local expert.  He kept saying nice things like "you're just not used to the table," and "obroni can't play billiards."  I felt better afterwards.

Saturday, after a good night's sleep and a good deal of motivation, we decided to take a cab to the Accra city center.  Drawing on the first name that came to mind in terms of the sights we read about in our trusty tourist guide book, I asked to be brought to Mokola market.  Of all the places I could have chosen, this was probably the most ... interesting.  It was the most congested, rowdy, and somewhat smelly place I've ever seen.  Once again, there wasn't another white person in sight.  We asked for directions to the shore, just so we could see the horizon and get our bearings.  What followed was one of the most incredible and saddening walks we've taken thus far.  We traveled through a maze of streets lined with chickens and goats, merchants and beggars selling foodstuffs and oddities (one woman was selling Bic razors).  Naked children played and bathed in the streets, and speakers were set up blaring Christian music at uncomfortable volume settings.  We worked our way to the ocean, and saw the remains of one of the old British forts that line the coast here.  There are still cannons and well-preserved architecture, though none have been professionally restored and there is nothing like a museum:  it's left to the environment and beggars to have there way with.

We then hoofed it for what was probably a couple miles up the coast towards Osu, where you can see the parliament and supreme court buildings.  Right across the street from these magnificent structures are more of the slums we have already described.  During our walk we were approached countless times.  We were asked where we were from (which then prompted the question "do we have money"), what we're doing here, if we have been enjoying ourselves, and if we were aware of any jobs.  People are very forward, particularly the merchants, and people will do about anything for a quick buck.  After touring the aforementioned fort, the guy who "helped" us asked for a dollar, which we gave him.  His children wanted money too.

We then took a cab from independence square and the famous arch, past the huge football stadium, ending up at what must be one of the least Ghanian restaurants we could find:  Barcelos, a Portugese chicken chain.  After our walk and extraordinary encounters, we needed some greasy french fries and air conditioning to purge our minds for a while.  The ride home was too long, as our cabbie got lost a couple times, but we were amazed at our experiences.

This morning we were picked up by John (our favorite guy ever) to attend church with him.  He belongs to the Legon Interdenominational Church, found on the university campus.  We had an hour-long bible study, where we discussed the Holy Spirit with John leading, and then we sat down for what would be a two hour long service.  At the beginning of the service, all first time visitors are asked to introduce themselves in front of everyone, so that was exciting.  We were also surprised to see several more obroni, as the university is starting classes tomorrow.  We are very excited to meet these people! 

The worship at this church is incredible.  It's a very modern church, so they have an excellent projector and sound system, and a worship team complete with drums, guitars, and an amazing group of singers leading the way.  The entire congregation sings with gusto, and the result gave me goosebumps.  I think Kaylee and I will enjoy attending here very much during our stay.

Speaking of stay, we find out tomorrow if this school will actually meet the requirements for us to become licensed teachers.  Prayers please!

That's probably everything that has happened for now.  Each day brings something joyful and exciting.  I'm still working at the problem of showing you all our pictures.

Kaylee and I also teach our first lessons tomorrow.  We are very excited, and a little nervous that everyone behaves themselves.  We will let you know how it goes.

We love and miss you all,


The Freemans

4 comments:

  1. "Obroni" is a term that has somewhat negative connotations. It is derived from "abro die ni" (a mischievous person, or wicked person who operates with terror) and was coined coined during the intense fighting against European atrocities, terror and human right abuses in Africa. Over time the meaning has softened so, not unlike the Mexican "gringo," it does not have the same negative connotations it once had.

    Interestingly, Ghanian's will sometimes apply this term to non-white foreigners, including those who come from other countries in Africa.

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  2. Ever the teacher Uncle Dan! It sounds like you two are absolutely wrapping yourselves around this incredible new world of yours! Son, you describe things so well I can almost find myself right there with you! Almost... Love you both so much! Good luck on teaching and prayers for certifications! Momma

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  3. Yes Bar Man, I thoroughly researched the term the first time I heard it. In all the contexts we have been refereed to as "obroni," it has been a term of endearment. I'll even refer to myself as obroni to my students, just as I did in Mexico with "gringo," as you said. :-) I did not know that about the reference to non-white foreigners.

    Another phrase that we have heard here is "TIA." "This is Africa." There are many instances where this phrase applies. Check it out.

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  4. Afi should have contacted you about getting in touch with her family there! I explained this all to Charlie, and commented that it was a small world, us having a friend from Ghana and then you both move there. He said that no, it's not a small world, but rather the Freemans seem to make it small with all our travels and friendships :) I agreed. Love you both!

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